1905
The Year the Coast Changed1905 The Year the Coast Changed
Timber Deals, Surveyors and the Founding of the Powell River Mill
Steamships navigating the Malaspina Strait relied on the most up-to-date marine information available. The area was particularly hazardous for vessels, and cartographers often prepared navigational charts months in advance. However, with the advent of modern printing presses, new nautical books became available each year.
The area around Powell Lake boasts many geographical features. Harwood Island, which is part of the Sliammon Reserve, is located 1.5 nautical miles from the shore. Surrounding waterway landmarks include Marshall Point, Rebecca Islet, and Bare Island. On the coast, you can find Grief Point, Froek, Powell Lake, Powell River, Sliammon, Lund, Sarah Point, Savary Island, Malaspina Inlet, and the entrance to Desolation Sound.
Magazines like the Souvenir of Vancouver published articles on the best places to visit, and labelled Vancouver as the Sunset Doorway of the Dominion. In their 1905 publication, the authors described Powell River as a foaming waterfall whose beauty remained largely unappreciated and unexploited. 50 Miles up from the coast and adjacent to one of the principal resorts of the summer. Steamers from the City carry passengers to the neighbouring Powell River, which connects to Powell Lake, and have two waterfalls of a combined height of 63 feet and run a half mile to the sea.
As the new year approached, there were serious concerns at the Sliammon Reserve (Tla’amin). Many of the Band members were gravely ill and wrote to their Indian Agent for assistance in a letter dated December 24, 1904. On January 3, 1905, the Indian Office replied to the Chief, informing him that the Department had notified a doctor and that he should send medicine.
In the village of Sliammon (Tla’amin), there was a Catholic Church where Father Chirouse delivered his sermons. He also served as an intermediary between the Sliammon Band (Tla’amin) and the Crown regarding correspondence. On January 10, 1905, Father Chirouse sent a letter to the Indian Department requesting a meeting between the Department and the Sliammon Band (Tla’amin).
In response, on January 4, 1905, the Indian Agent Mr. McDonald wrote back to Father Chirouse, informing him that he would be arriving on the steamer Cassiar. He requested that if the weather were stormy, Father Chirouse should kindly ask the Sliammon (Tla’amin) people to prepare a good boat or a large canoe to meet the steamer.
Chief Peter of Sliammon (Tla’amin) made an enquiry at the Indian Department over the rights of fishing and hunting on all Sliammon Indian Reserves (Tla’amin); his enquiry was replied to on January 13, 1905, by Indian Agent Mr. McDonald that no white men or other persons except Indians have any right to fish in the streams running through Indian Reserves nor have such persons any rights to hunt or otherwise to interfere with Indian Reserves.
Along with this reply, Indian Agent Mr. McDonald sent another letter to Mr. Vowell’s office at the Superintendent’s Office in Victoria. The Indian Agent stated that he had included a duplicate of a resolution signed by a majority of the Sliammon Indians (Tla’amin) to establish a day school in their village. The Sliammon (Tla’amin) community has already purchased the necessary timber from Messrs. Thulin Bros. for construction. It intends to use it to build the school, provided that the Department covers a teacher’s salary.
This reply, dated January 13, 1905, from Indian Agent Mr. McDonald explains that the building will be quite suitable for a day school; it will have another room and a kitchen at the back, and several rooms upstairs for living apartments. Messrs. Thulin Bros. have kindly offered to give them, free of charge, the seats and desks formerly used in the Lund Public School. Members of Sliammon (Tla’amin) have 30 school-age children and are most anxious to see their children educated.
Sliammon (Tla’amin) was in the middle of obtaining permission and resolutions for their own school. On January 25, 1905, a letter acknowledged the communication from Mr. Agent McDonald requesting that the Department provide a salary for a teacher for the day school that the Sliammon Band (Tla’amin) wishes to establish in their village. Tom Lamand supports the recommendation and the Indians’ efforts toward their betterment, and he will pay a customary salary of $300 toward a teacher’s wages when the school opens.
Mr. McDonald corresponded with the Indian Department on January 25, 1905, including a resolution signed by the majority of the male members of the Sliammon Band (Tla’amin) over the age of 21, requesting $330 in funds to purchase and have shipped water pipe and fittings to supply their village with a cleaner water source. Included in this were 2868 feet of 2-inch2-inch wooden water pipe for $278.85, Galvanized Iron pipe of 32 feet for $2.60, 8 elbows for $0.80, 1 cast iron Tee for $1.15, and 8 Brass stop brakes for $5.50, and freight of $41.00 for shipping all the material.
The community requested the construction of a water line from a nearby lake because its existing water source had become contaminated. Humpback and dogfish salmon frequently swam up the stream that ran through the village, where they died and decomposed, polluting the water supply. At the same time, the lake is a steady water source. Brother Colland of the St. Mary’s Mission has considerable experience in the construction of waterworks and will, for free, assist as the superintendent of the laying of the pipe, and the Indians will do the work.
On February 3, 1905, the Chief of Sliammon (Tla’amin) received another letter concerning the proposed day school and other community matters. In the letter, officials advised the Chief that teachers generally received a salary of $300 per year and that the Department would appoint a teacher once the school opened. Mr. McDonald urged the community to complete the necessary improvements to the school building as soon as possible so that classes could begin and the Department could secure a teacher’s services.
Mr. McDonald was also concerned about Charley Reid’s eyes; he arrived at the Vancouver Hospital but did not see the doctor and just returned to Sliammon (Tla’amin). He informed the Chief that the doctor could help Mr. Charley’s eyes, and that if he would come down again, the Department would pay the steamer’s fare both ways, and the Indian Agent would try to meet him in Vancouver.
Good news arrived to Father Chirouse at the Sliammon (Tla’amin) Catholic Church in the form of a letter dated February 15, 1905. This letter contained a reply to Rev. Father Bedard in respect to the qualifications of Andrew Phillips for the teaching position at the Sliammon (Tla’amin) School. From a conversation Mr. McDonald had with Charley Thulin in Vancouver, he learned that the Sliammon Indians(Tla’amin) had done nothing toward the necessary improvements to the school building. Mr. McDonald informed Father Chirouse that he would travel to Sliammon (Tla’amin) on March 18, 1905, to vaccinate those who had not yet received vaccinations and to oversee the school’s management.
Timber was the true treasure of the Strait of Malaspina, so abundant that there was a constant influx of paperwork for Timber Leases and Special Licenses. Timber License No. 4604, issued to Mr. C.C. Muir on January 25, 1905, was for an area just southeast of Grief Point on Malaspina Strait. On March 17, 1905, Mr. J.A. Sayward submitted an application for his cut-and-carry timber with three claims. All three claims, 1, 2, and 3, are located in the southernmost part of Powell Lake, approximately four miles from the mouth of the river.
Timber Cruisers roamed the Strait and have done so for a few decades, so no one probably paid much attention when a surveying force under the direction of Gore and McGregor of Victoria arrived on the coast. Unknown to many who may have seen them was that they were on the ground around March 5, 1905, to survey the shore and the Powell River as a proposed site for a large Pulp and Paper mill for a paper syndicate.
The historical story of the beginning of any mill always has an origin. Below is a transcript from a newspaper.
Transcription (as visible in the clipping):
“Some Large Timber Deals.
“In 1880 I saw the possibilities and went to Tom Earle at Victoria. I said, ‘We have a great chance to make a killing here. The government are to increase the price of timber land from $1 to $2.50, and there is a dollar and a half an acre right here.’ Earle said he could see nothing in it; there was no one to buy. But I said, ‘Buy it and hold it, man, and we will build our money.’ I did not think then I would live long enough to see the timber I hundred times more valuable,” he said.
‘No, I can see it your way.’ I then went to Edgar Marvin, hardware merchant in Victoria, and made the same proposition. He said he could not see how he could make anything on timber. I did not despair. I went to Major Dowling and told him my scheme. He saw through it, and told me to get away and stake some timber. I knew a large lot of timber at Powell Lake, and I started it and we got 20,000 acres at $1 an acre, payable in three years and Crown granted. Immediately after this, the government raised the price to $2.50. I suspended it, and found 7,000 acres of good timber and 10,000 of fair timber, the rest scrub. I sold my interest for $500, and the Major sold out for $1,000. Captain Clark bought mine. I then started out to hunt up more, and I came across the finest bunch of timber man ever saw at Malaspina Inlet. I went to the late W. P. Sayward, as fine a man as ever lived and a man of his word. I said, ‘I have a particular fine piece of timber, but I want my price.’ He said, ‘What is your price?’ I said, ‘$2,000.’ He said, ‘Well, Mose, I’ll take it, but of course I want to send my cruiser up to cruise it.’ This was in 1882, and he told Jas Miller, a man working for him, to go up and cruise it. In the meantime, J. J. Hunt, who knew me in Victoria, told Mr. Merrill, I won’t follow these men, for they got up to Victoria and hunt up Mose Ireland. Young Merrill hunted me up and asked me about timber. I said I had got a fine piece, but Sayward was going to take it. Miller failed to go up, and I took Merrill up to see the timber. Well, he just ran through the woods and looked around and said, ‘This is a most wonderful thing. If I want to buy it, I’ll give you $2,500.’ I told him that it was sold to Sayward for $2,000, but if Sayward did not want it, he could have it for the same price. Sayward’s cruiser reported unfavorably, said there was only a quarter of a section there, and Merrill bought it. He paid me $2,000 for 5,000 acres, and he paid the government $2.50 an acre, about $17,000, including survey expenses. The land has been offered from a man once half a million dollars for what I sold him for $2,000. He has refused to sell at any price. I was right when I told Tom Earle that he could make a killing in timber at $1 an acre. I want to add that when young Merrill went back to Michigan he sent me $500 as a bonus, which I stamped him as a generous man.’ Merrill was pleased with what I did, and he engaged me to cruise 15,000 acres at $1.25 an acre. He is holding all his timber still, and has made a great fortune out of that venture alone, and is now only 44 years old, with young to enjoy it. He is now a member of the firm of Merrill & Ring of Puget Sound, and all he has touched has helped to enhance his fortune, and he and his brother are multi-million-“
Source:
This appears to be a historical newspaper clipping discussing early timber acquisitions around Powell Lake and Malaspina Inlet, including references to W. P. Sayward, Edgar Marvin, Major Dowling, Tom Earle, Merrill & Ring, and events in the early 1880s. The clipping itself does not display the newspaper title, page number, or publication date in the visible portion.
News of a new paper mill on the coast of Malaspina Strait was making headlines in newspapers across British Columbia and many other places around the world.
From London, the Salisbury House publicly acknowledged the venture. At the same time, Mr. Clayton Beadle offered as much information as he could about the new company, The Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company, as reported on May 6, 1905.
With the major news out, the company published all its financial information, share offerings, and company standings. The Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company, led by English directors Mr. William Curtis Ward, Mr. Lewis Evans, Mr. Timothy Yates Nuttall, Mr. Robert Alfred Workman, and Mr. Edward Claude Leachman, received financial backing from The Union of London and Smiths Bank and the Canadian Bank of Commerce.
With an impressive £450,000 in funding, this company began advertising for shares. The Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company absorbed the Industrial Power Company and the Pacific Coast Power Company, thereby obtaining all necessary grants and licenses to construct the mill.
This new company was certainly well-funded, with loans and capital totalling £300,000 and payments of £37,500. The Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company acquired 163,000 acres of forest land, 2,900 acres of freehold land, and water rights. They agreed with Edward Lloyd Limited to supply 10,400 tons of product annually. As a result, investors were eager to purchase shares offered for sale from February through May 6, 1905.
The headline of the Cranbrook Herald on May 18, 1905, read “A Princely Concession.” A cable was sent out to the world announcing that the Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company Ltd. had successfully raised enough capital for the construction of a paper mill at Powell Lake. Local investors involved in this venture included Mr. H.B. Thompson, Mr. J.J. Shallcross, and Mr. Percy Criddle, all based in Victoria. Additionally, Dr. R.E. McKechnie and Mr. Geo. Cowan were involved from Vancouver, while Mr. W.W. Beer and Mr. J. Laing Stocks represented Nelson, BC.
These people were the principal instrumentalities in the flotation of the mill at Powell River. They started this venture in 1898, gradually securing the necessary paperwork, licenses, and approvals from the Province of British Columbia.
A lot was happening along the coast of Malaspina Strait, from Frolander Bay to Lund, as surveyors evaluated the standing timber as quickly as possible. Mr. W.E. Ditchburn, the Inspector of Indian Agencies for the Department of Indian Affairs, was concerned that the local Indigenous people were cutting small quantities of timber throughout the entire agency area.
The letter notes that the Indigenous peoples of the Sliammon (Tla’amin), Klahoos, Sechelt, and Homalco reserves are experiencing significant hardship, particularly due to a scarcity of food. The Department approved the removal of timber from designated areas and authorized its harvesting there. It allocated to the Sliammon (Tla’amin) Reserve 350 cords of shingle bolts, along with all dead timber situated within a specific tract of land that Mr. W.E. Ditchburn had marked.
This granting of cutting timber is in connection with Mr. Schacht, who is to sell the bolts for $2 per cord, and the buyer is to do the hauling, as the Sliammon (Tla’amin) Indians do not have satisfactory equipment to do the hauling. The proceeds from the sale of timber will greatly benefit the Sliammon (Tla’amin) Indians by helping them buy food and clothing for themselves and their families during the coming season.
The amount of timber the Department gave was small compared with the number of families who required assistance, according to Mr. W.E. Ditchburn, and the Sliammon ( Tla’amin) Indians have agreed to seed down the logged-off land within two years. Mr. Ditchburn recommended that the Department remit the timber dues in these cases on the ground that the purchasers have been making advancements in the provisions, as well as in clothing, for some time past.
With many people located in logging and mining camps along the coast and so few places to hear religious sermons, it was only a matter of time before they decided to travel by sea. A public announcement informed the coastal residents that the Missionary Steamer Columbia would be departing on April 4, 1905. The Archdeacon Pentreath, along with the Anglican clergy from Vancouver and their choir, gave the vessel a grand send-off. The Columbia will be journeying to Texada Island and Alert Bay, where there are over 3,000 loggers and miners.
The Reverend J. Antle will accompany the ship, which is also equipped with medical and surgical supplies and can serve as a marine ambulance.
As news of the new Pulp and Paper Mill in Powell River spread, many companies were grabbing up as many available District Lots as they could. The Fraser River Tannery Ltd was no exception, applying for Lots throughout the region, including lots on Powell Lake. Applied for on May 22, 1905, were Lots 9, 10, and 22, set between a creek, 3 miles from the shore of the north-east end of the lake, to a post set on Powell Island (Now known as Goat Island) and to 2 miles up the upper Powell River stream.
Mr. Moses Ireland was a pioneer in the forest industry, known for his interesting career with the Pacific Coast Timber Company. He was a prominent timber cruiser and an avid miner, making numerous deals throughout his life. He timber-cruised in the areas of Nanton and Dodd Lake, as well as several locations around Powell Lake and Grief Point, for the Moodyville Sawmill Company. Mr. Moses Ireland was a member of the Puget Sound firm Merrill & Ring in 1905, and he and his brother became multi-millionaires.
Working for the Hammond and Nanton, bankers from Winnipeg and Toronto, he cruised many areas in 1886. Also, he cruised with Webster and Edmonds, alongside the Victoria Timber Company, which had timber leases up and down the coast, including on Malaspina Strait.
A special meeting took place on June 8, 1905, in Vancouver, BC, involving loggers, mill workers, and the Provincial Government. The chairman, Alderman Heaps, attempted to address questions regarding the Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company, specifically regarding the grant of timberland they had received. There was widespread speculation along the coast about not only the quality and quantity of the timber but also its value, highlighting the need for proper surveying.
At the Powell River mill site, an agreement was made with Mr. Gardner, confirming that there was sufficient water head available to generate power. The company also determined that a log boom would be resilient enough to withstand any storm. The Honourable Mr. Carter-Cotton provided a personal assurance that the Province would implement necessary safeguards. He also confirmed that the company would invest capital in the venture and that the team involved was well-versed in the paper business. Therefore, Mr. Carter-Cotton deemed it unnecessary to take any further measures until the business progressed further.
Texada Island was an unusual meeting place for Canadian Pacific Railway (C.P.R.) officials on July 11, 1905, where they gathered to discuss various C.P.R. interests. In 1877, the HMS Daring anchored twice at Gillies Bay during its search for a western port for the railway. Engineer W.R. Thompson and experienced timber cruiser W.R. Regan left for Comox as part of this mission. Other attendees scheduled to join the meeting on Texada included Premier Hon. R.F. Green, Mr. William Manson, and another Mr. Thompson.
The Provincial Government sent a surveyor to the Powell River between July 1903 and June 1904 to assess the available water power. Mr. A.J. Hill arrived, surveyed the water power, and was paid by the Province the sum of $133.50 for his time and effort. The Bureau of Provincial Information, Bulletin No. 21 on The Timber and Pulp Wood Industries of BC, noted in its 1905 publication the encouragement for companies to obtain leases to locate pulp wood areas and water powers.
In the spring of 1905, companies granted within the Province were The Industrial Power Company and the Pacific Coast Power Company, The Cassiar Power and Industrial Company, the Oriental Power and Pulp Company, and the Quatsino Power and Pulp Company.
The Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company consolidated the Industrial Power Company and the Pacific Coast Power Company. It can now develop its lands near the mouth of the Powell River, located 80 miles north of Vancouver. The company’s stock is held in British Columbia and England, where Mr. W.C. Ward of London serves as the chairman.
On September 27, 1905, The Cumberland News reported that Mr. Peter Stewart McNutt paid $158.71 in taxes on 1,194 acres of land, identified as Lot 450 N of Powell River. This payment was part of the sale of lands for unpaid delinquent taxes in the Comox Assessment District of British Columbia.
The coast of British Columbia experiences very rough weather during the early months of the year, and conditions worsen as fall approaches. The Gulf of Georgia and Malaspina Strait, located between Vancouver Island and the mainland, are particularly treacherous during gale-force winds. In early October, a severe winter storm struck unexpectedly, which is common for this region. The storm resulted in tragic consequences, including the drowning of thirty Japanese fishermen.
Their vessels were demolished beyond recognition, as reported after the storm on October 7, 1905, and the entire coastline from Howe Sound to Texada Island was littered with wreckage from fishing boats. Many Japanese families were left devastated, as they never saw their loved ones return; many of these men were the sole providers for their families.
A major fire broke out on Texada Island in Marble Bay around November 21, 1905. The fire, which belonged to Captain Magnessen, resulted in a total loss. At the time, the building was closed, and all the clerks had gone home for supper. Captain Magnessen was not on the island when the fire occurred. It proved to be the most destructive fire Texada Island had yet seen, inflicting an estimated $10,000 in losses on Captain Magnessen alone.
Throughout the year, survey steamers of the Dominion of Canada and the Province of British Columbia continually charted unexamined waters, often venturing into regions where hidden hazards are already known to exist. The Department of Fisheries identified an uncharted rock hazard in Malaspina Strait and tasked Captain J.T. Walbran with locating it. In August 1904, during the survey, a black spar buoy was established off the north point of Texada Island in 6 fathoms of water. Additionally, at Atrevida Reef, a red spar buoy was set up in 5.5 fathoms of water to mark the western extremity of the unsurveyed reef located off the coast of the mainland and north of Harwood Island.
The events of 1904 and 1905 around Powell River, Powell Lake, and the Malaspina Strait form a tightly interwoven story of hazardous coastal navigation, intense timber speculation, and the sudden rise of a major industrial venture. Steamships moved through poorly charted, dangerous waters while surveyors, timber cruisers, and government crews mapped islands, reefs, and inlets from Harwood Island to Texada.
Timber was the region’s true currency: leases, cut‑and‑carry claims, and vast speculative purchases, like those described in the newspaper account of Moses Ireland, set the stage for corporate consolidation and profit. By early 1905, surveyors Gore and McGregor quietly examined the Malaspina Strait mainland, surveying out lots for timber leases.
Powell River was the proposed site of a large pulp and paper mill, just as the Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company emerged with £450,000 in capital, English directors, and control of the Industrial Power Company and Pacific Coast Power Company. Their acquisition of 163,000 acres of timber, water rights, and freehold land triggered a rush for remaining district lots, even as missionaries sailed north to serve isolated logging camps and government officials debated the value of the company’s timber grants.
The year unfolded with CPR meetings on Texada, provincial water‑power surveys, tax sales of Powell River lands, a deadly October storm that drowned thirty Japanese fishermen, and a major fire at Marble Bay, events set against ongoing coastal charting efforts, including Captain Walbran’s placement of spar buoys to mark hidden hazards. Together, these developments capture a coast on the brink of transformation, where timber wealth, industrial ambition, and maritime danger shaped the birth of the Powell River mill and the communities around it.
References:
The British Columbia Gazette. Victoria: Government Printer, 1905. Timber license notices and land descriptions published under authority of the Lands and Works Department.
British Columbia. Public Accounts for the Fiscal Year Ended June 30, 1905: Period from July 1, 1904, to June 30, 1905. Victoria: Richard Wolfenden, King’s Printer, 1905.
Canada. Parliament. Sessional Papers. Vol. 9. First Session of the Tenth Parliament, 1905. Ottawa: King’s Printer, 1905.
British Admiralty Sailing Directions: Pacific Coast, British Columbia—Jervis Inlet and Approaches. London: Hydrographic Office, Admiralty, early 20th century. (Cited based on navigational text describing Harwood Island, Sliammon, Lund, and Powell River.) (No direct digital copy surfaced; citation based on standard Admiralty publication format.)
The Cranbrook Herald (Cranbrook, BC). “A Special Concession.” May 18, 1905. Local business notice advertising reduced hotel rates.
The Daily Colonist (Victoria, BC). Various news articles and advertisements. July 12, 1905.
The Daily News (New Westminster, BC). “British Mission Controversy.” May 5, 1905.
The Economist. “New Loans and New Companies.” May 6, 1905. Financial tables and commentary on new capital issues, including the Western Canada Pulp and Paper Company.
The Paper Trade Journal. Vol. XL, no. 24. New York and Chicago: Paper Trade Journal Publishing Co., June 15, 1905. Industry advertisements and trade notices.


















